רגע מקום

אילנה רימלט
”רגע, מקום” הוא מקבץ של רשמי ביקור המיוחדים באיכות ההתבוננות שלהם, במקומות שונים בעולם.
את חוויותיה ורשמיה משתים-עשרה ארצות, מוסרת המחברת לקוראים בספר זה, המביא קולות וניחוחות,
מראות וקטעי חיים ממקומות שונים ומשונים, רחוקים וקרובים, והמצלמה שבידה כולאת בשבריר שנייה
את יופיו של הרגע.

כל מי שחיידק התיור בעורקיו, והסקרנות וכוח המשיכה למקומות אחרים מוציאים אותו לדרך,
אבל גם מי שאוהב לראות עולם מכורסת ביתו - מוזמנים להצטרף למסע הקריאה.
שם: רגע מקום
מחבר/ת: אילנה רימלט
שפה: עברית
תחום: רשמי מסע
תת תחום: רשמי מסע
מק״ט: 011194272
קרא עוד
המחיר הקטלוגי של הפריט: 79.00
קרא פרק ראשון
				  <div>
    <h3>אין דרך אחת נכונה לנוע בעולם</h3>

    <h3 class="sgc-1">במקום מבוא</h3>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">לעיתים, על מיטות זרות, במקומות שאת שמם לא ידעתי, חוזר אלי חלום לילה, בו אני מפליגה בתוך סירה קטנה על פני אגם אפור שגדותיו עלומות מעיני. לפתע מתחילים מי האגם השקטים לסעור ואני מאיצה את תנועת המשוטים כדי להגיע אל חופה של עיירה אלמונית. כשאני עולה על המזח, במקום ללא שם, מסתבר שקר שם, אין בגד חם על גופי, ובכיסי אין כסף ואין תעודות מזהות. את שפת אנשי המקום איני מבינה, והם לא מבינים את מלמולי דברי וממשיכים בשגרת יומם. אפילו את שם המקום, מצידו האחר של האגם ממנו באתי, איני זוכרת. זרה ולא שייכת אני במקום ההוא.</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">כמו</span> <span class="regular">לכל</span> <span class="regular">החלומות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">לחלום</span> <span class="regular">הזה</span> <span class="regular">יש</span> <span class="regular">שורשים</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">בילדותי אהבתי להציץ למקומות חדשים, שהיו אסורים בפני, וכשגדלתי ביקשתי להגיע למקומות שאלוהיהם וחוקותיהם אחרים. לעיתים העזתי, אבל לרוב, באותו פרק בחיים בו מקובל להפליג אל החופש ללא מחויבות, בחרתי את החוף הבטוח ו"המבטיח" ולא את מימיו הסוערים של האגם הגדול מחלומי. אז הסתפקתי בקריאה נמרצת בספרים ובצפייה מרחוק על המקומות הרחוקים, עם הבטחה בלב "שיום אחד...".</span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">היום אני רק תיירת נחפזת —</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">אחת</span> <span class="regular">מאלה</span> <span class="regular">שלא</span> <span class="regular">הספיקו</span> <span class="regular">להעפיל</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">כל</span> <span class="regular">הפסגות</span> <span class="regular">הגבוהות</span> <span class="regular">עליהם</span> <span class="regular">חלמו</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אחת</span> <span class="regular">מאלו</span> <span class="regular">שכבר</span> <span class="regular">לא</span> <span class="regular">יספיקו</span> <span class="regular">לראות</span> <span class="regular">מקרוב</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">צבעי</span> <span class="regular">כל</span> <span class="regular">הפסטיבלים</span> <span class="regular">אליהם</span> <span class="regular">נכספו</span> <span class="regular">בעבר</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">והנה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כשהחלטתי</span> <span class="regular">לשנות</span> <span class="regular">סדרי</span> <span class="regular">עדיפויות</span> <span class="regular">ולנסות</span> <span class="regular">להגשים</span> <span class="regular">פיסות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">חלומות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מצאתי</span> <span class="regular">עצמי</span> <span class="regular">כבר</span> <span class="regular">במעמד</span> <span class="regular">אישי</span> <span class="regular">מכובד</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">סבתא</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">ובינתיים</span> <span class="regular">הדרכים</span> <span class="regular">התקצרו</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">שבילים</span> <span class="regular">נסללו</span> <span class="regular">ושערים</span> <span class="regular">נפתחו</span> <span class="regular">לכיוון</span> <span class="regular">המקומות</span> <span class="regular">הרחוקים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אליהם</span> <span class="regular">הגיעו</span> <span class="regular">בעבר</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">היחידים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">הנועזים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">האמיצים</span> <span class="regular">והצעירים</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">והן</span> <span class="regular">מאפשרות</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">לאחת</span> <span class="regular">כמוני</span> <span class="regular">לטפס</span> <span class="regular">לפחות</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">חלק</span> <span class="regular">מהפסגות</span> <span class="regular">שנדחו</span> <span class="regular">עד</span> <span class="regular">כה</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">במצב</span> <span class="regular">קיומי</span> <span class="regular">מבוסס</span> <span class="regular">זה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כשלהט</span> <span class="regular">ההעזה</span> <span class="regular">כבר</span> <span class="regular">נרתע</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">יצר</span> <span class="regular">ההרפתקנות</span> <span class="regular">נשלט</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בולמוס</span> <span class="regular">ההספק</span> <span class="regular">נרגע</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">השאיפה</span> <span class="regular">להגיע</span> <span class="regular">רחוק</span> <span class="regular">יותר</span> <span class="regular">וגבוה</span> <span class="regular">יותר</span> <span class="regular">צברה</span> <span class="regular">ניסיון</span> <span class="regular">חיים</span> <span class="regular">ותובנה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אבל</span> <span class="regular">עדיין</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">אותו</span> <span class="regular">חיידק</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">שטרם</span> <span class="regular">נרגע</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">מצטיידת</span> <span class="regular">בתיק</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">במצלמה</span> <span class="regular">ובמשקפי</span> <span class="regular">גיל</span> <span class="regular">מסנני</span> <span class="regular">קרינה</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ריגושי</span> <span class="regular">נעורים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">פורשת</span> <span class="regular">לעיתים</span> <span class="regular">קרובות</span> <span class="regular">משגרת</span> <span class="regular">החיים</span> <span class="regular">המפנקת</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">הבית</span> <span class="regular">ויוצאת</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">להציץ</span><span class="regular">".</span> <span class="regular">מעזה</span> <span class="regular">פעם</span> <span class="regular">להעפיל</span> <span class="regular">לפסגות</span> <span class="regular">דלות</span> <span class="regular">חמצן</span> <span class="regular">בדרכים</span> <span class="regular">תלויות</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">פי</span> <span class="regular">תהום</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כדי</span> <span class="regular">להאזין</span> <span class="regular">לשירת</span> <span class="regular">נזירים</span> <span class="regular">טיבטים</span><span class="regular">;</span> <span class="regular">פעם</span> <span class="regular">אחרת</span> <span class="regular">משכנעת</span> <span class="regular">עצמי</span> <span class="regular">שלא</span> <span class="regular">נורא</span> <span class="regular">ללון</span> <span class="regular">בצריף</span> <span class="regular">עץ</span> <span class="regular">שורץ</span> <span class="regular">עכברים</span> <span class="regular">ולקבור</span> <span class="regular">עצמי</span> <span class="regular">תחת</span> <span class="regular">שמיכת</span> <span class="regular">צמר</span> <span class="regular">מקומית</span> <span class="regular">אדירת</span> <span class="regular">משקל</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אם</span> <span class="regular">בבוקר</span> <span class="regular">אזכה</span> <span class="regular">להסתנוור</span> <span class="regular">מצבעיה</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">זריחה</span> <span class="regular">הימלאיית</span><span class="regular">;</span> <span class="regular">פעם</span> <span class="regular">מוכנה</span> <span class="regular">לוותר</span> <span class="regular">לילה</span> <span class="regular">אחד</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">פרטיות</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">מקודשת</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">ולחלוק</span> <span class="regular">דורמיטור</span> <span class="regular">עשוי</span> <span class="regular">קורות</span> <span class="regular">עץ</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">עוד</span> <span class="regular">30</span> <span class="regular">איש</span> <span class="regular">כדי</span> <span class="regular">לקחת</span> <span class="regular">חלק</span> <span class="regular">בטקס</span> <span class="regular">פגאני</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">ופעם</span> <span class="regular">גוברת</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">פחד</span> <span class="regular">גבהים</span> <span class="regular">מולד</span> <span class="regular">ומתנדנדת</span> <span class="regular">לאט</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">גשרים</span> <span class="regular">תלויים</span> <span class="regular">בגובה</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">עשרות</span> <span class="regular">מטרים</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">למען</span> <span class="regular">מבט</span> <span class="regular">רחב</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הג</span><span class="regular">'</span><span class="regular">ונגל</span> <span class="regular">האמזוני</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">וכך</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">לעיתים</span> <span class="regular">ללא</span> <span class="regular">מים</span> <span class="regular">חמים</span> <span class="regular">וזורמים</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">מים</span> <span class="regular">חמים</span> <span class="regular">(</span><span class="regular">יותר</span> <span class="regular">גרוע</span><span class="regular">)</span> <span class="regular">הפורצים</span> <span class="regular">מתוך</span> <span class="regular">צינורות</span> <span class="regular">חלודים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">מצליחה</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">לעת</span> <span class="regular">בגרות</span> <span class="regular">לטעום</span> <span class="regular">טעימות</span> <span class="regular">קטנות</span> <span class="regular">מעולמות</span> <span class="regular">רחוקים</span> <span class="regular">וקסומים</span> <span class="regular">בעיני</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">לא תמיד דרכי הטיול שלי נועזות. לרוב אני מגיעה לפינות העולם בדרכים סלולות, היוצאות בבוקר מתוך בתי מלון מסודרים עם מצעים לבנים, בעזרת מדריך ומסלול הכבולים בחוקי זמן והספק.</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">בטיולים</span> <span class="regular">כאלה</span> <span class="regular">מתגלה</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">המקום</span> <span class="regular">האחר</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">לעיני</span> <span class="regular">בכל</span> <span class="regular">זרותו</span> <span class="regular">המושכת</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">לפרק</span> <span class="regular">זמן</span> <span class="regular">קמצני</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">שעות</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">ימים</span> <span class="regular">ספורים</span> <span class="regular">המותירים</span> <span class="regular">אפשרות</span> <span class="regular">למבט</span> <span class="regular">מרחף</span> <span class="regular">בלבד</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">מרחביו</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">וחלקים</span> <span class="regular">רבים</span> <span class="regular">מארץ</span> <span class="regular">צופנת</span> <span class="regular">סודות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">סיפורים</span> <span class="regular">רבים</span> <span class="regular">נפרשים</span> <span class="regular">לעיני</span> <span class="regular">התיירת</span> <span class="regular">הנחפזת</span> <span class="regular">מעבר</span> <span class="regular">לחלונות</span> <span class="regular">מוכהים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">אוטובוס</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">רכבת</span> <span class="regular">דוהרים</span> <span class="regular">במהירות</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">פני</span> <span class="regular">נופי</span> <span class="regular">אדם</span> <span class="regular">ואדמה</span> <span class="regular">משתנים</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">אנשי</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">פוגשת</span> <span class="regular">בנקודות</span> <span class="regular">מזדמנות</span><span class="regular">:</span> <span class="regular">ברחוב</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בתחנה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בדרך</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בבית</span> <span class="regular">אוכל</span> <span class="regular">מקומי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">באתר</span> <span class="regular">היסטורי</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">שביל</span> <span class="regular">בוצי</span> <span class="regular">המוביל</span> <span class="regular">אל</span> <span class="regular">כפר</span> <span class="regular">נידח</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שרגלי</span> <span class="regular">תיירים</span> <span class="regular">כבר</span> <span class="regular">הידקו</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">אדמתו</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">לכאורה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כך</span> <span class="regular">נחשפת</span> <span class="regular">לעיני</span> <span class="regular">מקצת</span> <span class="regular">האמת</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הארץ</span> <span class="regular">ועל</span> <span class="regular">אנשיה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בתוספת</span> <span class="regular">השלמות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מידע</span> <span class="regular">בדוק</span> <span class="regular">מפי</span> <span class="regular">המדריך</span> <span class="regular">המקומי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">המציג</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">ארצו</span> <span class="regular">במשפטים</span> <span class="regular">מוכנים</span> <span class="regular">וארוזים</span> <span class="regular">היטב</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">אבל</span> <span class="regular">לא</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">כך</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">כשאני</span> <span class="regular">יוזמת</span> <span class="regular">שיחה</span> <span class="regular">מגומגמת</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">שכנים</span> <span class="regular">למושב</span> <span class="regular">בתא</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">רכבת</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">באוטובוס</span> <span class="regular">מקומי</span> <span class="regular">מקרטע</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">ספסל</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מסעדה</span> <span class="regular">עממית</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כשאני</span> <span class="regular">מנסה</span> <span class="regular">לדובב</span> <span class="regular">כפרי</span> <span class="regular">בשוק</span> <span class="regular">הפורש</span> <span class="regular">סחורתו</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הארץ</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בעזרת</span> <span class="regular">כמה</span> <span class="regular">מילים</span> <span class="regular">מקומיות</span> <span class="regular">שנשלפות</span> <span class="regular">למטרה</span> <span class="regular">המיידית</span> <span class="regular">משיחון</span> <span class="regular">ליצירת</span> <span class="regular">קשר</span> <span class="regular">מהיר</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">מצליחה</span> <span class="regular">לחדור</span> <span class="regular">מעט</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">לחצרות</span> <span class="regular">האחוריות</span> <span class="regular">שלהם</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">לפעמים</span> <span class="regular">אפשר</span> <span class="regular">לשמוע</span> <span class="regular">קולות</span> <span class="regular">אחרים</span> <span class="regular">ששייכים</span> <span class="regular">למקום</span> <span class="regular">הזר</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">האקזוטי</span> <span class="regular">והמסקרן</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">דווקא</span> <span class="regular">במקומות</span> <span class="regular">בלתי</span> <span class="regular">צפויים</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">כזה</span> <span class="regular">היה</span> <span class="regular">קולו</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מגמל</span> <span class="regular">הודי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">ששר</span> <span class="regular">כל</span> <span class="regular">הדרך</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">סיפור</span> <span class="regular">חייו</span> <span class="regular">כשהוא</span> <span class="regular">מוביל</span> <span class="regular">אותי</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הגמל</span> <span class="regular">שלו</span> <span class="regular">במדבר</span> <span class="regular">הוורוד</span> <span class="regular">במערב</span> <span class="regular">הודו</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כך</span> <span class="regular">היה</span> <span class="regular">כשהפסקתי</span> <span class="regular">להתלבט</span> <span class="regular">בקשר</span> <span class="regular">לטעמו</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">נזיד</span> <span class="regular">עדשים</span> <span class="regular">שמושלך</span> <span class="regular">לצלחת</span> <span class="regular">אלומיניום</span> <span class="regular">מונחת</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הרצפה</span> <span class="regular">והתיישבתי</span> <span class="regular">לאכול</span> <span class="regular">אותו</span> <span class="regular">במקום</span> <span class="regular">פנוי</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">הרצפה</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מקדש</span> <span class="regular">סיקי</span> <span class="regular">מוזהב</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">אז</span> <span class="regular">יכולתי</span> <span class="regular">לשמוע</span> <span class="regular">מקרוב</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">המיית</span> <span class="regular">החיים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">שש</span> <span class="regular">מאות</span> <span class="regular">עולי</span> <span class="regular">הרגל</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">המשתתפים</span> <span class="regular">בארוחת</span> <span class="regular">חינם</span> <span class="regular">זאת</span> <span class="regular">המוגשת</span> <span class="regular">שם</span> <span class="regular">כמעט</span> <span class="regular">סביב</span> <span class="regular">השעון</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">בצליינות החילונית שלי פלשתי בסקרנות חמדנית לתוך מקדשים לא לי, הצטרפתי לתהלוכות של נושאי מנחות לאלוהים זרים, התקרבתי אל קודש קודשיהם, התבוננתי במאמינים תמימים, שהיו שקועים בהידברות קרובה עם האל, ביקשתי לכלוא בעדשה את הרחיפה הרוחנית שעל פניהם, הסתנוורתי מצבעי תלבושות, שמעתי המיה של תפילות וקצב צלילי פעמונים, ספגתי ניחוחות של זרי פרחים טריים שנקטפו לכבוד אלה שחורה, ראיתי את רחף תנועת סירות הנייר המרופדות בפרחים ובאור שמפליגות עמוסות משאלות במורד הנהר, צילמתי את צלמי אלוהיהם הנישאים על כתפיים — חוויתי, התפעמתי... ולא הקרבתי שום מנחה משלי.</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">זרה</span> <span class="regular">ובלתי</span> <span class="regular">שייכת</span> <span class="regular">למקום</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כמו</span> <span class="regular">בחלום</span> <span class="regular">האגם</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">כעוברת אורח ללא מחויבות למקום אני נוגעת באבני המקום, מתרשמת מן הנוצץ והחשוף לעין, ומרגישה לעיתים קרובות כאילו מתבוננת בנשף מסֵכות, ששחקניו מתחלפים ומחליפים תחפושת, מבלי לגלות לי את פניהם האמיתיות.</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">כי</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">שם</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">בעמדת</span> <span class="regular">ציד</span> <span class="regular">אחר</span> <span class="regular">הפריים</span> <span class="regular">האחד</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">המיוחד</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">החשוב</span> <span class="regular">לי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שייכנס</span> <span class="regular">לתוך</span> <span class="regular">הפילם</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">המצלמה</span> <span class="regular">ויהווה</span> <span class="regular">חלק</span> <span class="regular">מסיפור</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span> <span class="regular">שאותו</span> <span class="regular">אביא</span> <span class="regular">עימי</span> <span class="regular">הביתה</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">לעיתים</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">מוכנה</span> <span class="regular">אפילו</span> <span class="regular">להתאמץ</span> <span class="regular">למען</span> <span class="regular">השגתו</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">לרדוף</span> <span class="regular">אחר</span> <span class="regular">אובייקט</span> <span class="regular">שמשך</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">ליבי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">להסתכן</span> <span class="regular">עד</span> <span class="regular">גבול</span> <span class="regular">המותר</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">להציץ</span> <span class="regular">אל</span> <span class="regular">מקומות</span> <span class="regular">חשוכים</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">לעיתים</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">עקרונות</span> <span class="regular">החינוך</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">הטוב</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">התרבות</span> <span class="regular">בה</span> <span class="regular">גדלתי</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אינם</span> <span class="regular">מסוגלים</span> <span class="regular">לעצור</span> <span class="regular">בעד</span> <span class="regular">להט</span> <span class="regular">הסקרנות</span> <span class="regular">המבקש</span> <span class="regular">להתפרץ</span> <span class="regular">לתוך</span> <span class="regular">טריטוריות</span> <span class="regular">פרטיות</span> <span class="regular">ואינטימיות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">אחרים</span><span class="regular">:</span> <span class="regular">מסתננת</span> <span class="regular">עד</span> <span class="regular">טקסי</span> <span class="regular">קבורה</span> <span class="regular">צופני</span> <span class="regular">סוד</span> <span class="regular">ורוויי</span> <span class="regular">צער</span> <span class="regular">פרידה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מציצה</span> <span class="regular">מבעד</span> <span class="regular">לסורגי</span> <span class="regular">גדר</span> <span class="regular">בטקסי</span> <span class="regular">חתונה</span> <span class="regular">עליזים</span> <span class="regular">הנערכים</span> <span class="regular">לפי</span> <span class="regular">קודים</span> <span class="regular">זרים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מחפשת</span> <span class="regular">תפרחות</span> <span class="regular">ייחודיות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">צמחים</span> <span class="regular">בחצרות</span> <span class="regular">בית</span> <span class="regular">ירוקות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שולחת</span> <span class="regular">מבטים</span> <span class="regular">גנובים</span> <span class="regular">לתוך</span> <span class="regular">חלונות</span> <span class="regular">פתוחים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">בתים</span> <span class="regular">כפריים</span> <span class="regular">תמימים</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">כדי</span> <span class="regular">לראות</span> <span class="regular">מקרוב</span> <span class="regular">איך</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">הם</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">ישנים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מה</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">הם</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">אוכלים</span> <span class="regular">ואילו</span> <span class="regular">אביזרים</span> <span class="regular">יש</span> <span class="regular">בפינת</span> <span class="regular">הבישול</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">שלהם</span><span class="regular">"?</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">ואז</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">תחת</span> <span class="regular">השפעת</span> <span class="regular">סם</span> <span class="regular">המציצנות</span> <span class="regular">הממכר</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שאלות</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">זכותה</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מצלמה</span> <span class="regular">נחפזת</span> <span class="regular">לדחוף</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">אפה</span> <span class="regular">הסקרני</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בקלוז</span><span class="regular">־</span><span class="regular">אפ</span> <span class="regular">פולשני</span> <span class="regular">מול</span> <span class="regular">פנים</span> <span class="regular">מופתעות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">אם</span> <span class="regular">הן</span> <span class="regular">מתוגמלות</span> <span class="regular">היטב</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מתעוררות</span> <span class="regular">באיחור</span> <span class="regular">ונדחקות</span> <span class="regular">לשוליים</span> <span class="regular">בשל</span> <span class="regular">ההנאה</span> <span class="regular">המיידית</span> <span class="regular">מהרגע</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">הטיול</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">אני אספנית של מראות שטח —</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">במגעי</span> <span class="regular">החפוזים</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span> <span class="regular">הזר</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מלקטות</span> <span class="regular">עיני</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">פירורי</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">רק</span> <span class="regular">שברי</span> <span class="regular">מראות</span> <span class="regular">השייכים</span> <span class="regular">לפאזל</span> <span class="regular">רב</span> <span class="regular">חלקים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">קיום</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">פיסות</span> <span class="regular">התרחשות</span> <span class="regular">מתוך</span> <span class="regular">דרמה</span> <span class="regular">ריאליסטית</span> <span class="regular">נטולת</span> <span class="regular">סיפור</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">המצלמה</span> <span class="regular">הנחפזת</span> <span class="regular">שבידי</span> <span class="regular">עוזרת</span> <span class="regular">לי</span> <span class="regular">לכלוא</span> <span class="regular">בשבריר</span> <span class="regular">שנייה</span> <span class="regular">מידע</span> <span class="regular">מרתק</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">נכון</span> <span class="regular">ומעודכן</span> <span class="regular">לאותו</span> <span class="regular">רגע</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">אבל</span> <span class="regular">מנותק</span> <span class="regular">לחלוטין</span> <span class="regular">מרצף</span> <span class="regular">חיים</span> <span class="regular">בעל</span> <span class="regular">משמעות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">חיי</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">אוהבת</span> <span class="regular">לשוטט</span> <span class="regular">בשווקים</span> <span class="regular">רווי</span> <span class="regular">ריחות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">איכרים</span> <span class="regular">עם</span> <span class="regular">צבע</span> <span class="regular">צנוניות</span> <span class="regular">שנקטפו</span> <span class="regular">לפני</span> <span class="regular">שעה</span> <span class="regular">קלה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">ואוהבת</span> <span class="regular">להרים</span> <span class="regular">מבט</span> <span class="regular">לכיוון</span> <span class="regular">גגות</span> <span class="regular">שטוחים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">קיץ</span> <span class="regular">בעיירות</span> <span class="regular">חמות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שם</span> <span class="regular">תמיד</span> <span class="regular">בין</span> <span class="regular">פלונטר</span> <span class="regular">לא</span> <span class="regular">נפתר</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">חוטי</span> <span class="regular">חשמל</span> <span class="regular">וטלפון</span> <span class="regular">וחבלים</span> <span class="regular">עמוסים</span> <span class="regular">בכביסה</span> <span class="regular">צבעונית</span> <span class="regular">יש</span> <span class="regular">רחש</span> <span class="regular">אותנטי</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">חיים</span><span class="regular">.</span> <span class="regular">המצלמה</span> <span class="regular">שלי</span> <span class="regular">מתעקשת</span> <span class="regular">ללוות</span> <span class="regular">חולה</span> <span class="regular">מונח</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">אלונקת</span> <span class="regular">שמיכה</span> <span class="regular">נישאת</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">כתפיים</span> <span class="regular">לאורך</span> <span class="regular">עשרות</span> <span class="regular">קילומטרים</span> <span class="regular">עד</span> <span class="regular">המרפאה</span> <span class="regular">הקרובה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">לעקוב</span> <span class="regular">אחר</span> <span class="regular">"</span><span class="regular">חנות</span> <span class="regular">מהלכת</span><span class="regular">"</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ארגז</span> <span class="regular">תלוי</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">צווארו</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ילד</span> <span class="regular">קטן</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">להתקרב</span> <span class="regular">אל</span> <span class="regular">קבוצת</span> <span class="regular">נערים</span> <span class="regular">הבועטים</span> <span class="regular">בכדור</span> <span class="regular">עשוי</span> <span class="regular">סמרטוטים</span> <span class="regular">בתחרות</span> <span class="regular">השכונתית</span> <span class="regular">או</span> <span class="regular">לצלם</span> <span class="regular">מקרוב</span> <span class="regular">בובה</span> <span class="regular">בלונדינית</span> <span class="regular">מרוטת</span> <span class="regular">שיער</span> <span class="regular">שיד</span> <span class="regular">קטנה</span> <span class="regular">ושחורה</span> <span class="regular">אוחזת</span> <span class="regular">בה</span> <span class="regular">חזק</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">וגם</span> <span class="regular">גזרי</span> <span class="regular">תמונות</span> <span class="regular">מעיתונים</span> <span class="regular">המביאים</span> <span class="regular">נשים</span> <span class="regular">בהירות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שופעות</span> <span class="regular">חזה</span> <span class="regular">חשוף</span> <span class="regular">אל</span> <span class="regular">חשכת</span> <span class="regular">הקירות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">בקתה</span> <span class="regular">עשויה</span> <span class="regular">מענפי</span> <span class="regular">עץ</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">וכך</span> <span class="regular">יוצא</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">שלעיתים</span> <span class="regular">קרובות</span> <span class="regular">תמונות</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span> <span class="regular">שאני</span> <span class="regular">מביאה</span> <span class="regular">הביתה</span> <span class="regular">מספרות</span> <span class="regular">על</span> <span class="regular">מציאות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ביבים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">כזו</span> <span class="regular">שהעוני</span> <span class="regular">מככב</span> <span class="regular">בה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">למרות</span> <span class="regular">שחיים</span> <span class="regular">באותה</span> <span class="regular">ארץ</span> <span class="regular">גם</span> <span class="regular">עשירים</span> <span class="regular">מופלגים</span> <span class="regular">רבים</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">ובשובי הביתה —</span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">במרחק</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">אלפי</span> <span class="regular">קילומטרים</span> <span class="regular">ולעיתים</span> <span class="regular">במרחק</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ימים</span> <span class="regular">רבים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">בעזרת</span> <span class="regular">זיכרון</span> <span class="regular">דחוס</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">קצת</span> <span class="regular">בוגדני</span> <span class="regular">וגם</span> <span class="regular">בררן</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">ומ</span><span class="regular">ַ</span><span class="regular">לבני</span> <span class="regular">התמונות</span> <span class="regular">שהיו</span> <span class="regular">כלואות</span> <span class="regular">בסליליה</span> <span class="regular">הרבים</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">המצלמה</span> <span class="regular">הנחפזת</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">בונה</span> <span class="regular">מסתמיו</span><span class="regular">ּ</span><span class="regular">ת</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מראות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">פגישות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">קטעי</span> <span class="regular">שיחות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">ריחות</span> <span class="regular">וטעמים</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">סיפור</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">הנופים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">האתרים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">המקדשים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">הפסטיבלים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">הטקסים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">המוזיאונים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">האנדרטאות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">הרחובות</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">האנשים</span> <span class="regular">—</span> <span class="regular">הכול</span> <span class="regular">מצטמצם</span> <span class="regular">לעיתים</span> <span class="regular">לערפל</span> <span class="regular">זיכרון</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">אור</span> <span class="regular">שעטף</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">המקום</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">הבזק</span> <span class="regular">צבע</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">משב</span> <span class="regular">רוח</span> <span class="regular">נושא</span> <span class="regular">ניחוח</span> <span class="regular">זר</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">תנועה</span> <span class="regular">פתאומית</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">קול</span> <span class="regular">המיה</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מבע</span> <span class="regular">פנים</span><span class="regular">...</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">אחר</span> <span class="regular">כך</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">מול</span> <span class="regular">מרקע</span> <span class="regular">המחשב</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">אני</span> <span class="regular">מנסה</span> <span class="regular">להחיות</span> <span class="regular">את</span> <span class="regular">תמצית</span> <span class="regular">המראות</span> <span class="regular">שסיננתי</span> <span class="regular">מתוך</span> <span class="regular">קליידוסקופ</span> <span class="regular">רב</span> <span class="regular">צורות</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">חיים</span><span class="regular">,</span> <span class="regular">להפיח</span> <span class="regular">עניין</span> <span class="regular">בפיסות</span> <span class="regular">המציאות</span> <span class="regular">שהפקעתי</span> <span class="regular">מתוך</span> <span class="regular">המכלול</span> <span class="regular">ולארוג</span> <span class="regular">במילים</span> <span class="regular">שמנסות</span> <span class="regular">לדייק</span> <span class="regular">מסמך</span> <span class="regular">מעניין</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">מקום</span> <span class="regular">רחוק</span> <span class="regular">ואחר</span> <span class="regular">שריגש</span> <span class="regular">פעם</span> <span class="regular">תיירת</span> <span class="regular">נחפזת</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <p dir="rtl"><span class="regular"><span class="regular">יופי</span> <span class="regular">של</span> <span class="regular">ארץ</span> <span class="regular">שלמה</span> <span class="regular">נדחס</span> <span class="regular">בתוך</span> <span class="regular">מספר</span> <span class="regular">דפים</span> <span class="regular">מודפסים</span><span class="regular">.</span></span></p>

    <h5 class="sgc-3">***</h5>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">מבחר מראות, חוויות, ריגושים וקולות שלכדתי במשך אחת־עשרה שנים בשנים־עשר מקומות בעולם מזין את הרשימות של ספר זה.</span></p>

    <p class="sgc-2" dir="rtl"><span class="regular">אין זה "ספר מסעות", והרשימות שלו אינן מציעות מסלולי טיול אובייקטיביים, אלא רק רגעים ממקומות שאהבתי בעולם.</span></p>
  </div>
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